Showing posts with label Italy. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Italy. Show all posts

Saturday, March 15, 2014

A paranoid dinner


An unique dinning experience, today I am going to talk about a dinner I had in Antica Focacceria San Francesco in Palermo. It was almost 3 years ago.

Hours of wandering in Palermo, sun had just set. It was a Sunday night, it probably explained why the streets were so dead. Apart from a few cars passing by occasionally, almost all the shops were closed. My stomach was churning, telling me I should search for dinner. I walked and walked and finally stumbled upon this beautiful antique restaurant in a dark alley, the only restaurant still opened that I could find.

People always know about Sicily as the birthplace of mafia, so do I. Plus, that day was just my first day in Sicily, I was being very cautious about gangsters and stuff. I walked in, there were a few customers but they were all dressed up. Women in dresses, men in suits. Why they were all dressed up, I thought, while the all the people I met during the day weren't even like this. They all looked at me at once when I stepped in, probably because I awas the only foreigner there. They probably just wondering why an asian kid came into the restaurant alone. But then my paranoid brain kicked in, thinking that they were all mafias and they despised me because I had intruded their little private dining space.

Panicking, I think I probably wet my armpits. But I thought I couldn't walk out again after just walking in. That would create suspicion. I gulped down my confusing thoughts, walked in anyway, trying to be casual. I lined up like everybody else, to order food. Not many people like I said, but it was the longest queue in my life. When it was my turn, the waiter didn't speak English, so I turned around looking for help. I looked back and behind me a lady with a cold-blooded face, a face as if she could kill anybody in the room with her gun in between her thighs. She gave me a chill in the spine, almost made me cry out mama. Helpless, I turned back to the waiter, randomly pointed on one line in the menu and ordered a plate of pasta quickly. I saw everybody also ordering some sort of burger, and there was a separated stall where there was the cook preparing it on spot. I thought it was an obligation to order it since everybody did so. So yet again, I pointed at the burger stall, and signaled to the waiter that I would like one of that burger.

The restaurant serves like a canteen. I ordered the food and paid at one end, and then collected the food at the corresponded stalls. I collected my pasta, and then the burger. The cook said something to me in Sicilian that I certainly didn't understand but I guessed it was a question, I just nodded as hard as I could. I finally sat down with my food. I wanted to take a picture of the food, but I didn't dare to do it openly. I sneaked out my camera and then took a quick photo. At this very moment, two wild policemen walked in and my flight or flee mechanism broke down entirely. My brain was shut down, confused. Try not to make eye contact with anyone and eat your food obediently, I told myself again and again.

Literally a quick snapshot. The photo of the food I ordered. 
From my peripheral vision, I saw the policemen walking around and greeting the waiters, the cashier and the cook, and also some of those well dressed customers. Even the policemen knew them! They must certainly be mafias, I thought. All my assumptions were correct. Holy shit! Frightened, I only knew I had to finish my meal immediately and run run run! And that is exactly what I did. Of course that I didn't run. I paced quickly out of the shop and told myself not to look back. After what I assumed a safe distance away from the shop, I finally had the courage to turn around and I took a zoomed-in picture of the shop from far.

The photo of the restaurant I took from a "safe distance".
Days after, I was so damn embarassed by my paranoid behaviour. Come to think it, there is a higher chance that those people in the restaurant that night were not mafia. It was just my imagination. They must have thought that I was a weirdo. Recently I tried to check out the restaurant online again and to my surprise, it is a really famous restaurant. It is even featured in the Michellin guide. A touristic spot is what I got from reading the reviews. Some say it worths its reputation, some say overrated. For the period of two years after my visit to the restaurant, I always thought that it was only known by the locals. I thought I had found a hidden treasure that I could brag about. But in the end, it is just another typical touristic spot. I probably went there during their low season.    

Anyway, it was a funny experience, a funny story to tell people, my story. That is why this restaurant always has a special place in my heart. I don't remember the details of the interior nor the taste of the food. I only remember that the building kinda gave me a nostalgic feeling and the food was really cheap. For what I ordered, I paid only 4 euros and the quantity was so much that I couldn't even finish my food that night. But on the off chance, there was also the possibility that my appetite was disturbed by my only wish to get away as soon as I could.




















Wednesday, August 21, 2013

San Remo - Italian Riviera


San Remo, an Italian city in Italian Riviera in the region Liguria, is situated very near France, with just a dozen kilometers from the border. Comparing to French Riviera, Italian Riviera is not very popular but still equally charming as French cities such as Nice, Cannes and Antibes. San Remo is not very visited by foreign tourists, thus less illegal immigrants selling touristic souvenirs, something I appreciate a lot. 

First of all, the train station. San Remo train station is very unique. It is basically inside a cave. The platforms are even deeper inside. From the entrance, there is a 500 meters walk before you reach the platforms. And with the moving walkway, the train station itself looks certainly like an airport. 

San Remo train station.
The long walk to the platforms.
The old city of San Remo is called La Pigna. Standing on a small hill, La Pigna is quite small but very beautiful and charming. Taking a stroll inside La Pigna, and you won't be able to stop yourself from taking photos, one after another. Your camera will run out of memory in no time. The following photos were taken in La Pigna.


 









Riviera, of course we must mention its beautiful beaches. San Remo's largest beach is covered with fine sand, but comes with an entrance fee, around 3 to 4 euros. The other beaches in San Remo have very rocky shore, but they are free. 

Sunbathing

San Remo has a casino. I thought I could bring my family to a western casino and expect something to amaze us. But we found nothing but disappointment. No table games at all, there were only gaming machines, mostly slot machines. The casino building is certainly worth visiting though.



Another thing to mention about San Remo is its cycling paths. The paths are very well paved and very enjoyable to cycle on, and there were many bicycle rental shops there. So we also did a short cycle tour in San Remo.



If you get bored with San Remo already, you can get out by train to the nearby towns like Ventimiglia or Bordighera, both are very nice to visit. Train service is very frequent and cheap. In fact, you don't even have to buy the ticket. The journey is so short that the ticket controller won't have time to check you. You can even go through the border and visit some small towns in between Menton and Nice like Cap d'Ail, and also Monaco. All of them are easily accessible by train.  














Monday, August 19, 2013

Siena and Palio


Siena, one of the typical Tuscany towns. Famous mostly because the annual Palio, held twice a year on the 2 July and the 16 August. Palio di Siena basically a horse race in Piazza del Campo at the town center,  a race in between the 17 contrades of Siena (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Contrade_of_Siena). The race usually lasts 90 seconds, which is rather short, but it is the preparation and the festivity beforehand that attract people to the Palio. 

Taking trains to Siena from Florence and Pisa must all take a change at Empoli. Once reach Siena train station, there is a tourism office inside the station where you can grab a free map and any information needed. Siena is not big at all. The Siena streets are narrow and the buildings are tall enough to provide the shade, making the walk inside the old city pretty enjoyable. In front of the train station, there is a shopping center, and inside of it, there are escalators helping people to get up to the old city of Siena. 

Siena
Siena train station
This is the view after taking the escalators of the shopping center in front of the train station.
From the train station, after passing through a shopping center and a few escalators,
and a hundred meters later, you will reach this city wall. The old city of Siena is inside
this wall.




Cathedral of Siena

The flags of the 17 contrades.

Piazza del Campo on a normal day.
Piazza del Campo on a normal day.
Piazza del Campo just before the Palio.
Video recorded by my mom. Piazza del Campo on days before the Palio.
Fences around the plaza and the horse race circuit covered with thick layer of dirt.


In the movie Quantum of Solace, there is actually one chase scene took place in Siena, in the middle of Palio.















Sunday, August 18, 2013

Riomaggiore - Cinque Terre


Not very well known by many yet, Cinque Terre is a place you should not neglect when you visit Italy. Cinque Terre literally means five lands. It is in fact composed of five fishing villages, each of them sitting on rocky sea side. Five of them are Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza and Monterosso. Early this August, my family and I visited Riomaggiorre. The scenery was just breathtaking. It was the most picturesque site I have ever been. It was a shame that we only have time to visit one among five of them.

I actually discovered this place when I took a train from Pisa to Genova a few years ago. From the train, I got a few glimpses on Cinque Terre, and I immediately felt in love with all of them. The railway hugs the coastline tightly, and the train passing on the railway, through tunnels after tunnels, with cliffs of dozen meters drop sitting closely beside it. Not to mention the crystal-clear Mediterranean sea. So clear that you can see the bottom of the sea floor. It is quite an experience by just sitting inside the train.    

We did go to sea side and had a bath in the sea. The rocky seaside allowed us to do some cliff jumping but the it is very hard to walk on. The slippery mosses on the rock surface made the task even tougher. All of us got a few scratches of the feet. Many people slipped trying to walk, and there was this unlucky guy slipped and his head knocked on a rock and bled. The upside was that the wound wasn't very serious and the guy was fine. 

This is a place I would certainly go back. May be do a hiking trip, trekking to all five villages. But this time, it is just Riomaggiore. Our cameras are just not good enough to capture the beauty of Riomaggiore. If you google Cinque Terre, then you will understand my feeling towards Cinque Terre.


Outside Riomaggiore train station.
Riomaggiore train station.
The tunnel connecting the train station and the town center.
Town of Riomaggiore



Climbing up the stairs to get a better view.
Posing for picture :)


The ultimate spot to enjoy the view. Here, under the shade, on a high ground,
with almost undisturbed view on the Mediterranean sea, and the cold breeze
constantly blowing on you. With a cold beer, it would be perfect. 

Riomaggiore train station







Video recorded by my mom.

Video recorded by my mom.